Mojave National Preserve

At 1.6 million acres, Mojave national Preserve is not only the third largest National Park Service are outside of Alaska, but it also holds portions of three of the four major North American deserts: the Mojave and transitional elements of the Great Basin and Sonoram.

Established in 1994 by the California Desert Protection Act, the preserve is located between Los Angeles and Las Vegas providing serenity and solitude from the crowds of these major metropolitan areas.

Thought many areas of Mojave appear barren, signs of life abound. There are hundreds of seep and springs, cactus garden, isolated communities of white fir and chaparral and the densest, largest Joshua tree forest in the world. Sand dunes, canyons, mountains, volcanic cinder cones, great mesas, domes and lava flows define the preserve. Rocks as old as 2.5 billion years old have been discovered in the Clark Mountains which rise to 7,929 feet, reinforcing Mojave’s reputation as a land of extremes.

History

The Mojave American-Indian tribe, namesake of the preserve, called this desert home. By the time the Spanish arrived in the territory in the 16th century, the Mojaves were the largest concentration of people per square mile in the southwest. Additionally, the Chemehuevi lived on the land that is now the preserve. Before contact with new settlers the Chemehuevi lived on prickly pear, mesquite and roasted agave blooms and hunted deer and bighorn sheep. Living near the Colorado River, these people were able to thrive in the Mojave Desert.

The Mojave were fierce people willing to protect their land, and willing to venture far from it. They traveled to the Pacific coast, becoming proficient traders and exchanged crops with coastal tribes for goods such as shells, and made pots, bowls, ladles and dishes decorated with geometric designs from sedimentary clay and crushed sandstone. The material was coiled, dried, painted and fired in either open pits or rudimentary kilns. The women took the craft further by making unique pottery dolls for the children, dressing and decorating them complete with human hair.

The search for fortune brought the first white man, Fray Francisco Garces, to the land of the Mojave in 1775. His writings portrayed the Mojave as friendly, and industrious. Trappers soon followed, but their interactions with the Mojaves were less peaceful and resulted in years of infighting, distrust and death. In 1865, almost a hundred years and a docket full of Indian Wars later, the federal government created the Colorado Indian Reservation near Parker, the Southern range of the Mojave.

Ranching played a vital role in the region over the past 150 years. A hearty group raised cattle and lived throughout the land that is the current preserve. Today, few ranchers are left and the area and the place in the preserve as a vivid reminder of the activities that used to take place. Mojave National Preserve is in the process of creating the larger Historical Ranching District recorded in the National Register of Historic places.

In 1872, the General Mining Law permitted individuals to stake a claim on a plot of land where a mineral deposit was discovered. This resulted in a gold rush in the area while in later years others tried to profit off silver (1883) and iron ore (1940s). As western expansion marched forward, so did the railroads. In 1902 the Union Pacific made their presence known on the west coast with construction of the salt lake Route, between Salt Lake and Los Angeles. Construction began at the two endpoints and met in the Mojave Desert. The preserve’s visitor center, Kelso Depot, was once an essential stop on the line. Kelso Depot received its name when three warehousemen put their names into a hat, the winner was John Kelso.

Activities at Mojave National Preserve

Up to 700 feet in height, kelso Dunes in Mojave National Preserve are the third tallest in North America. When conditions are right, as sand grains move over one another, they sometimes create a booming sound. Try running down the slopes to make the dunes boom. The preserve is great for backpacking, horseback riding, hiking, four-wheeling (on designated roads) and wildflower viewing.

  • Backpacking is allowed. Since there is no registration system and few established trails, make sure you have a map and let someone know your itinerary. Remember to camp at least a quarter mile from
  • Any paved road and half a mile from developed areas. Your campsite must also be 200 yards from any water sources.
  • Three national park campgrounds are available inside the preserve: Hole-in-the first come, first-served. Black Canyon Equestrian & Group Campground is reservation only. Call (760) 928-2572 or (760) 2572 or (760) 252-6104.
  • Four-wheel drive routes are popular in the preserve. One of the most recommended is the Mojave Road, which runs across the entire park from east to west. Driving of established roads is prohibited.
  • Horseback riding is welcome, but there are none for rent.
  • Although there are few established hiking trails, abandoned dirt roads, washes and ridgelines offer an abundance of cross-country hiking opportunities. A map can be found at nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/-hiking.htm.

For more information contact Mojave National Preserve Headquarters at (760) 252-6100, Kelso Depot Visitor Center at (760) 252-6108 or visit nps.gov/moja.